Allo!
I thought for this second newsletter, we could talk denim and deepen our mutual knowledge of our favorite fabric. What do you think?
I had fun putting together a short glossary of what I find most important and fascinating about denim. While doing it, I realized... there’s a lot I find important and fascinating!
This newsletter has a first section here, and the rest is on the blog. You’ll find the link to the article at the end of the newsletter! 😉 Enjoy!
1. DENIM ORIGIN
The fabric’s origin is claimed by both Nîmes, France, and Genoa, Italy.
- In Nîmes, it was woven as early as the 16th century as “sergé de Nîmes,” which eventually became simply denim.
- In Genoa, Italy, around the same time, artisans produced an extra tough indigo cloth for sailors’ work wear, nicknamed « blu di Genova » — which became blue jeans.
Incredible!
Photo credit : Canesso Gallery, The Master of the Blue Jeans — Woman sewing with Two Children
Painted by the mysterious “Master of the Blue Jeans,” The Woman Begging with Two Children is one of the earliest known depictions of denim in art. Created in 17th-century Italy, the work blends everyday realism with striking indigo hues made from natural pigment—the same used to dye jeans. The artist’s focus on humble figures dressed in Genoese fustian (early denim) makes this painting a key moment in both denim and art history.
2. WHY IS DENIM BLUE?
Denim is characterized by indigo-dyed warp threads and white weft threads.
Blue became associated with the working class in the 18th century, and since denim was originally designed as durable workwear, it was dyed blue. Indigo dye was already widely available at the time, making it the practical and economical choice.
Traditionally, only the warp threads were dyed because they are the most visible on the front side of the fabric. This method was a cost-effective way to save both time and dye. What began as a practical decision eventually led to the iconic denim aesthetic we recognize today.
→ Not sure what warp and weft threads are? I explain it all in this article: Click here.
3. THE TWILL WEAVE
There are several fabric families: plain weave, satin, crepe, etc.
Denim belongs to the twill family.
During weaving, the weft thread passes under one warp thread, then over two or three others, creating a staggered pattern that gives the fabric the typical diagonal texture of twill weaves.
4. WHAT FIBER CONTENT?
100% Cotton denim
A natural plant-based fiber, it's the most common one used for denim. Originally, all denim was 100% cotton before elastane or polyester were added. 100% cotton denim is soft, absorbent, and more breathable. (It’s usually the favorite of upcyclers 😉)
Organic cotton: Refers to a more eco-friendly cotton that is grown without the use of pesticides
Cotton/spandex denim
Cotton/spandex denim is mostly cotton with a small percentage of spandex (or another stretchy synthetic fiber), often woven into the weft.
This stretch denim allows for greater freedom of movement. However, it's less durable, as spandex is delicate and sensitive to heat. It should be washed in cold water and kept out of the dryer to preserve its elasticity. It’s also harder to recycle due to its blended fiber content. It tends to be a bit less popular among upcyclers as well, since the stretch level can vary from one pair of jeans to another — which makes combining pieces with different levels of stretch more challenging.
*Bi-stretch denim: Stretches both horizontally and vertically (in the warp and the weft).
Poly/cotton denim
Poly/cotton is a blend of cotton (a natural fiber) and polyester (a synthetic fiber), with polyester often used in the weft thread. This type of denim is lighter, dries faster, wrinkles less, and shrinks less than 100% cotton denim. But be careful: polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum. It is less breathable, non-biodegradable, and releases microplastics into the water during washing, contributing to aquatic pollution.
Of course, denim can be made from linen or hemp, silk or cashmere, but these fiber contents are more marginal and come from somewhat more upscale products.
5. WHAT IS RAW DENIM ?
Photo credit : Nudies jeans
Raw denim hasn’t been washed or faded yet. Most jeans are assembled using raw denim, then washed after assembly to achieve different shades of blue. Jeans sold as raw denim, however, haven’t undergone any washing or fading. They retain their original dark indigo color, which gradually evolves over time, forming unique marks that reflect the wearer’s body and movements. In general, dark jeans require less water and fewer treatments than light-washed jeans, and therefore have a smaller environmental footprint.
WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT DENIM?
Click the button to check out my denim 101 part 2 post! We're going to dive into the differences between 3×1 and 2×1 twills, Z and S twills, slubby denim, crosshatch denim, and selvedge denim! Admit it—you can't wait to learn more! 😍
MUST READ DENIM BOOK
If I’ve sparked your interest in digging deeper into the topic… I highly recommend this book. It covers the history of jeans, every step of the manufacturing process, the different types of yarns and weaves, as well as the various washes and treatments. It’s a real goldmine—both comprehensive and enjoyable to read
→ Here is the link for it, click here [lien Amazon]
PSSST… WANT TO STOCK UP ON SEWING TOOLS?
I made a list of all my favorite sewing tools, with explanations on how to use them
→ Click here to have a look !
Do not hesitate to share any comments or interesting facts you known on denim
XOXO, talk soon!
Ariane 💙
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