DENIM 101 ｜ 5 More Things You Have to Know About Denim

---

Hey hey!
So happy you feel like knowing more about denim! Have you read Part 1 of this post yet? If not, I invite you to check it out by clicking the button below :)

If you have high five 🙌  !

Je suis toujours émerveillée de découvrir à quel point chaque petit détail cache tout un savoir-faire. As-tu déjà entendu parler de termes comme sergé 2×1 ou 3×1, tissage en Z ou en S, denim ring spun ou à trame croisée, ou encore denim selvedge ? Nous allons démystifier le tout ensemble! Trop excitant! J’ai fait de mon mieux pour garder ça clair et bien vulgarisé 😉. Si tu as des questions…poses-les en commentaires! !

😉 Enjoy!

---

1. 3x1 vs 2x1 Twill

Le denim est un tissu sergé. Lors du tissage, le fil de trame passe sur un fil de chaîne, puis sous 2 ou 3 autres fils de chaîne, créant un motif décalé qui donne au tissu la texture diagonale typique des tissus sergés.

→ Not sure what warp and weft threads are? I explain it all in this article: Click here

3x1 Twill

The weft thread goes under one warp thread and over three.
This is the standard weave for most jeans: thick, stiff, and very durable.

2x1 Twill

A bit lighter: the weft thread goes under one warp thread and over two.This weave gives a softer denim, perfect for summer clothes or looser fits.

---

2. A Z Twill vs S Twill

Right-hand twill (Z twill)

The diagonal pattern go down from top right down to bottom left. It’s the most common in classic jeans. It creates a smoother surface, a tighter weave, and usually results in more high-contrast fading.

Left-hand twill (S twill)

Le motif diagonale descend de gauche à droite. Souvent plus doux au toucher, car ce sens de tissage permet aux fibres de coton de se détendre plus rapidement au lavage. Le délavage est généralement plus uniforme.

---

3. The 2 Types of Slub Yarn

Ringspun yarn

Le denim tissé avec des fils filés à l’anneau est plus doux, plus solide de meilleure qualité, mais plus dispendieux.

Open-end (or rotor spun) yarn

Le denim  tisé avec des fils filés open-end (ou rotor) est plus épais, plus irrégulier, mais plus économique.

This book is really interesting! It covers the history of jeans, every step of the manufacturing process, the different types of yarns and weaves, as well as the various washes and treatments.
It’s a real goldmine—both comprehensive and a pleasure to explore!

Here is the link for it, click here (Amazon link)

---

4. SLUB DENIM VS CROSSHATCH DENIM

Slub denim

Tissé avec un fil ring-spun (anneaux ou open-end) en chaîne, tandis que la trame reste lisse.
The result: a distinctive vertical texture.

Crosshatch denim

Il est tissé avec du fil ring-spun (anneaux ou open-end) à la fois en chaîne et en trame. Résultat : une texture en quadrillage ou croisée.

If you don't know what warp and weft is? Click here

---

5. WHAT IS SELVEDGE DENIM?

Selvedge denim is woven on traditional shuttle looms, which create a clean edge—often marked with a colored thread. Considered a sign of quality and durability, it’s highly valued by denim purists. Selvedge denim fabrics are narrower than modern denims, typically ranging from 75 to 85 cm (30 to 33 inches) in width.

Traditionally, to make a selvedge jean, the outer side seam is aligned with the selvedge edge. That way, when the hem is rolled up, the seam reveals the selvedge—a detail prized for its aesthetic and authenticity.

Modern standard denim is generally woven on projectile or air-jet looms, which are much faster but do not produce a clean selvedge.

---

MUST READ DENIM BOOK

If I’ve sparked your interest in digging deeper into the topic… I highly recommend this book. It covers the history of jeans, every step of the manufacturing process, the different types of yarns and weaves, as well as the various washes and treatments. It’s a real goldmine—both comprehensive and enjoyable to read

→ Voici le lien : clique ici  (Lien Amazon)

---

These details influence everything: fit, comfort, style, and how your denim ages with you. Understanding them better means choosing better jeans, repairing them smarter… and upcycling them more beautifully 💙

What about you — what’s your favorite pair of jeans, and why do you love them so much?
Tell-me 👇✨

XOXO, talk soon!
Ariane 💙